
Concrete
Concrete
Read more403 Navaho Dr, Frederick, MD 21701

Pavers · From the field
The patio decision looks like a style question and is actually a physics question: Maryland ground freezes, thaws and moves, and the two materials answer that movement in opposite ways. Here is the honest comparison — cost, winters, maintenance and repairs — from a crew that installs both.
Quick answer
Concrete costs less up front and gives a clean monolithic surface, but in Maryland’s freeze-thaw climate it will eventually crack, and cracks are forever. Pavers cost more installed, but they flex with ground movement, and any settled or damaged section can be lifted and relaid invisibly. For a patio you plan to keep decades, pavers usually win the long game; for budget-driven projects, honest concrete done right is a fine answer.

Frederick County ground freezes to a couple of feet in a cold winter, and wet soil expands close to ten percent when it freezes. Every hardscape surface in Maryland sits on ground that heaves a little each winter and relaxes each spring — the design question is not whether the ground will move but what the surface does about it. That single fact drives almost every honest difference between the two systems.
Poured concrete answers movement by resisting it. It is a rigid monolithic slab; when the ground under one corner heaves or washes out, the slab bridges, stresses and eventually cracks. The industry’s own joke — there are two kinds of concrete, cracked and going to crack — is why control joints exist: they are planned weak lines that invite the inevitable crack to happen somewhere tidy. Good work makes cracks rare, straight and hairline; no work makes them impossible.
Pavers answer movement by joining it. A paver patio is a flexible system — hundreds of small units on a compacted stone base, locked by sand-filled joints — and when the ground shifts, the surface flexes fractionally and settles back. Freeze-thaw that cracks a slab passes through a paver field harmlessly. The trade: what a rigid slab resists all at once, a flexible system tolerates in small doses, so a badly built base shows up as gradual settlement rather than one dramatic crack — which brings everything back to the base.
Both systems live or die below grade, and this is where cheap bids go to hide. A paver patio in our climate wants organic topsoil excavated out, a compacted crushed-stone base — several inches for foot traffic, more where vehicles will sit — compacted in thin lifts with a plate compactor, not dumped and driven over, then a screeded bedding course, the pavers, edge restraint, and polymeric sand vibrated into the joints. Skip the compaction lifts and the patio records the shortcut in wavy settlement within two winters; skip the edge restraint and the field spreads at the borders until the joints open.
Concrete’s below-grade requirements are the same story with different words: a compacted stone base over undisturbed or compacted subgrade, reinforcement (fiber and/or steel — insurance against crack width, not against cracking), proper thickness, air-entrained concrete — the mix chemistry that gives freeze-thaw somewhere to push — control joints cut at the right spacing and depth, and a cure that is not rushed. Every one of those items is invisible in week one and legible in year five.
Drainage is the shared, non-negotiable chapter: every patio must fall away from the house — roughly a quarter inch per foot — and downspouts must not discharge onto or beside it, because water under a hardscape is the freeze-thaw engine’s fuel. When a patio fails early in Maryland, water management is the culprit more often than the surface material ever is.
Up front, concrete wins clearly: a broom-finished slab is the least expensive real patio there is, and even upgraded finishes stay below pavers. Pavers carry more material cost and much more labor per square foot. Stamped and colored concrete lands in between and deserves its own honest note: it photographs like pavers at a lower price, but it keeps all of concrete’s crack behavior — and a crack through a stamped pattern is more conspicuous, not less, while the surface also wants periodic resealing to keep its color. The specific ranges we price to are on the concrete and pavers pages of this site rather than repeated here.
Over twenty years the ledger shifts. Concrete’s maintenance is low but its failures are permanent: cracks can be filled, never unmade; a settled slab section can be mud-jacked or foam-lifted, but spalled or scaled surface — the flaking that follows bad finishing plus de-icing salt — has no pretty fix. Pavers ask for a little more along the way: polymeric sand topped up every several years, weeds where joints go unmaintained, optional sealing. But every problem has a graceful repair, which is the next section.
One more line item people forget: removal. A failed slab exits by jackhammer and dumpster, and that demolition cost is part of concrete’s true lifetime price if it fails early. A tired paver patio is a stack of reusable material.
Here is the difference that shows up in year eight. A corner of a paver patio settles where a downspout ran under it: the fix is to lift those pavers, re-compact and re-screed the base, relay the same pavers, re-sand the joints — an afternoon, invisible afterward, using the stones that were already there. The same settlement under a slab is a crack, and every remedy is a compromise: fill it and see it, lift it and hope it comes up level, or cut out and re-pour a section that will never quite match the original’s color and weathering.
The same logic covers the future you cannot see yet. Gas line to a future fire pit, conduit to landscape lighting, a drain re-route, a stain from the grill, one unit shattered by a dropped dumbbell — under pavers, all of these are lift-work-relay stories. Under concrete, they are saw-cut stories. Buying a pallet of extra pavers at install and stacking them behind the shed is the cheapest insurance in hardscaping, because the dye lot on the repair then matches forever.
Fairness to concrete requires saying where it wins on its own merits: as a working surface it is unbeatable per dollar — a basketball hoop, a shed base, a driveway apron want monolithic flatness; a broom finish is naturally slip-resistant; and one pour covers in a day what a paver crew sets in a week. A well-built, well-jointed slab in Maryland can go a decade and more before its first hairline crack, and plenty of homeowners take that deal knowingly. The mistake is not choosing concrete; it is choosing it without knowing the deal.
Strip the marketing and the decision usually resolves on four questions. How long will you own the house? Short horizon favors concrete’s economics; long horizon favors pavers’ repairability. How visible and central is the space? The entertaining patio you look at from the kitchen window every day earns the pavers premium; the utility pad behind the garage does not. What is the drainage and slope situation? Complicated grades, tree roots and downspout crossings all favor the system that can be adjusted later. And is there a phase two — the fire pit, the seat wall, the outdoor kitchen? Paver systems extend seamlessly; slabs accept additions the way old houses accept new wings, with a visible seam.
On permits and codes: a patio at grade is usually permit-light in Frederick County, but anything that changes drainage patterns near the house, ties into a structure, or adds walls above a modest height starts touching rules — seat walls, retaining walls past a couple of feet, and roofed structures all do. A contractor fluent in the local process is cheaper than a stop-work order, and this is ordinary MHIC-licensed home improvement work: verify the license like you would for any trade.
Timing-wise, hardscaping season in Maryland runs April through November, with the caveat that concrete has real temperature rules on both ends — hot pours and freezing cures both make bad slabs — while paver installation tolerates the calendar’s edges better. Book in late winter and the patio is real by Memorial Day; the crews you want are scheduling exactly then.
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Straight answers
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Broom-finished concrete is the least expensive real patio; pavers typically run north of it per square foot installed, with stamped concrete between them. The concrete and pavers pages on this site carry the ranges we actually price to. Compare bids on the invisible items — excavation depth, base thickness, compaction method, edge restraint, reinforcement — because that is where a low bid found its number.
A properly built paver patio is effectively indefinite — the base can be a fifty-year system with joints refreshed along the way, and any unit that fails gets swapped. A well-built slab typically gives twenty to thirty serviceable years here, with hairline cracks arriving somewhere in the middle and de-icing salt the main thing that ages its surface prematurely. Both numbers halve with a bad base; neither material fixes bad ground prep.
In unmaintained sand joints, yes — though the weeds grow from seeds landing in the joints, not up from below. Polymeric sand, which hardens after installation, blocks most of it, and a refresh every several years keeps it that way. A properly compacted base under a geotextile also denies them a root run. It is a real but small maintenance item — an hour or two a season on a patio that is otherwise permanent.
If the slab is sound, drains correctly and has height to spare at the door thresholds, an overlay with a bedding layer is a legitimate shortcut we do use. The honesty clauses: the pavers inherit the slab’s behavior, so a cracking, heaving slab telegraphs its problems upward, and the added height often collides with door sills and step rhythms. A cracked slab is usually better demolished than dressed.
Both are real options at the ends of the spectrum. Natural flagstone set dry on stone dust is beautiful and repairable like pavers, at a higher material price and with more irregular footing; set wet in mortar on concrete, it becomes as crack-prone as its slab. Gravel is the budget champion for informal areas and drains perfectly, but it migrates, wants raking and an edge, and is no friend to patio furniture. We install both and will say plainly which fits your site.
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