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Siding costs in Maryland
What siding costs installed in Maryland
Vinyl, insulated vinyl, fiber cement and engineered wood, per square foot of wall and per house — with the trim, wrap and sheathing repair that most quotes bury and some omit.
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Quick answer
How much does siding cost in Maryland?
Standard vinyl siding installed in Maryland runs $5.50 to $11.00 per square foot of wall area, which puts most houses here between $9,000 and $20,000 including tear-off. Insulated vinyl is $8.50 to $14.00, engineered wood is $10 to $17, and fiber cement is $12 to $22 per square foot installed. The spread inside each material is driven by how many corners, windows and gables the house has, and by what gets found behind the old siding once it comes off.
The numbers
Maryland pricing, broken down.
Almost no contractor site in this market publishes a number, which is exactly why the question has so much search demand and so little honest supply. These are the ranges we price to in Maryland, with the reason each one is a range and not a price.
Typical in Maryland
Standard vinyl, installed
$5.50 – $11.00 / sq ft
Standard vinyl, installed
$5.50 – $11.00 per square foot of wall
Wall area, not floor area. A two-storey 1,800 sq ft house typically has 1,600 to 2,200 sq ft of wall once you subtract openings and add gables.
Typical house, vinyl, complete
$9,000 – $20,000
Tear-off, disposal, house wrap, siding, and all the trim and corner work. The honest version of this number always includes the trim, because the trim is where a quarter of the labour is.
Insulated vinyl
$8.50 – $14.00 per square foot
A foam backer bonded to the panel. It adds a modest R-value, but the real reason to buy it is rigidity — it lies flatter, sounds solid rather than hollow, and does not show stud lines the way thin panel does.
Engineered wood (LP SmartSide and similar)
$10 – $17 per square foot
Looks like painted wood, holds a crisp shadow line, and takes impact far better than vinyl. It has to be painted and re-caulked on a cycle, which vinyl does not.
Fiber cement (Hardie and similar)
$12 – $22 per square foot
The premium option and genuinely the best performer in this climate — dimensionally stable, non-combustible, and holds paint for fifteen years. It is heavy, slow to cut and install, and that labour is most of why it costs double vinyl.
Tear-off and disposal of old siding
$0.70 – $1.60 per square foot
Higher where there are two layers, or where the original is asbestos cement board, which has to be handled and disposed of under its own rules and is priced separately.
House wrap / weather-resistive barrier
$0.55 – $1.20 per square foot
The layer that actually keeps water out of the wall; the siding is a rain screen in front of it. Non-negotiable, and a line item that should be visible on the quote.
Sheathing replacement where rotted
$85 – $160 per 4x8 sheet
Priced per sheet because nobody knows how many until the old siding is off. Concentrated under windows, at the bottom course, and wherever a gutter has been overflowing for years.
Trim, corners, J-channel, window surrounds
$9 – $22 per linear foot
Where the difference between a good siding job and a cheap one is actually visible. A window wrapped in coil stock with mitred corners reads as carpentry; the same window with J-channel and a caulk joint reads as siding.
Soffit and fascia, wrapped or replaced
$12 – $30 per linear foot
Almost always done at the same time, because getting to it again later means taking siding back off. Rotted fascia also means the gutter has nothing sound to hang from.
Permit
$100 – $350
Required in most jurisdictions here for a full re-side. Cheap, and it brings an inspection of the wrap and flashing before everything is covered up.
Ranges, not quotes. Published 2026 and reviewed against work we are actually pricing in Maryland. What your job costs comes from a walkthrough — access, condition, height and finish level move a price more than square footage does. Estimates are free and in writing.
Why two siding quotes are almost never the same job
More than any other trade we price, siding quotes vary on scope rather than on rate. One includes house wrap and one assumes what is there is fine. One wraps the window surrounds in matching coil and one runs J-channel and caulks it. One prices the soffit and fascia and one leaves them for later. One includes a per-sheet rate for bad sheathing and one goes silent on it and raises a change order on day two.
None of that is visible in the total. The way to see it is to hand both contractors the same list — material and panel thickness, wrap, trim detail at every opening, soffit and fascia, sheathing allowance, disposal, permit — and ask for a line against each. The cheaper quote frequently stays cheaper, and now you know what you are giving up for it.
Panel thickness, and the hollow sound test
Vinyl is sold by thickness, usually between .040 and .046 inches for residential work, and the difference is not cosmetic. Thin panel telegraphs every stud and wave in the wall, oil-cans in the sun, and sounds like a drum when you knock on it. Thicker panel, and especially insulated panel, lies flat and sounds solid.
If you are comparing two vinyl quotes and one is noticeably cheaper, thickness is the first place to look. The second is the trim package. The third is whether the panels are nailed with the right gap to let them move — vinyl expands and contracts across a Maryland temperature range by a surprising amount, and panel nailed tight buckles by August.
Siding, gutters and the trim they both land on
A re-side is the right moment to deal with the fascia, the soffit and the gutters, because all three are fastened to the part of the house the siding covers. Hanging a new gutter on rotted fascia, or leaving a soffit vented badly behind new siding, is work that has to be undone later at full price.
We do siding, gutters and roofing, so the eave detail gets decided once and executed by one crew. Where the old siding has been letting water into a wall, we also handle the inside — the insulation, the drywall, the paint — which is the part a siding-only contractor hands back to you.
Before you sign anything
What a real written quote should itemise
Ask every contractor for these in writing. Quotes only compare once they do — and Maryland law requires home improvement work over $500 to be under a written contract anyway.
- Wall square footage, and how it was measured
- Material, brand, line and panel thickness — not just "vinyl"
- House wrap: which product, over the whole house or in patches
- The trim detail at every window and door, described specifically
- Soffit, fascia and freeze board: wrapped, replaced, or left
- A stated per-sheet rate for replacing rotted sheathing
- Flashing at windows, doors, decks and roof-to-wall junctions
- Tear-off, disposal and how many layers are coming off
- Permit, and who pulls it
- What happens to the landscaping, and who puts it back
Want the number for your house?
Call and describe the job. You’ll get a straight answer on whether it’s something we do and roughly what it runs, before anyone books a visit.
(301) 524-1729
Priced by us, not a calculator
Siding Installation
What moves the number
Why two quotes on the same job land far apart.
Usually not because one contractor is expensive. Usually because they are pricing different work. These are the variables that actually move it.
01
Wall area, which is not floor area
The most common reason a homeowner thinks a siding quote is too high is that they were mentally pricing the square footage of the house. A two-storey colonial with gable ends can carry more wall area than its floor plan, and a single-storey ranch of the same size carries much less. Ask how the number was measured.
02
How many corners and openings there are
Flat run is fast. Corners, windows, doors, bump-outs, a bay and a chimney chase are all hand-cut detail work, and each one is a place water can get in if it is flashed carelessly. Two houses with identical wall area can differ by 30% on this alone.
03
What is underneath
Behind the old siding you find one of three things: sound sheathing, sheathing with localised rot under a window or at the base of a wall, or — on older houses here — board sheathing with no weather barrier at all. The third case adds wrap over the whole house and is a genuine improvement, not an upsell.
04
Height and access
Second-storey gable ends worked off ladders and planks are slower and more expensive per foot than anything within reach. A house on a slope, with a deck in the way or with mature planting tight to the wall, costs more for the same material.
05
Material, and what you want from it in ten years
Vinyl is the value answer and will look the same in ten years with a wash. Fiber cement will look better and cost double. Engineered wood sits between them and asks for paint on a cycle. There is no wrong answer here, only a wrong match between the material and how much maintenance you are actually prepared to do.
On the job
What you are paying for.
Trade photography, stage by stage — the work these numbers buy. Photos of our own recent jobs come out at the walkthrough, on the actual house.
Straight answers
Siding cost questions
Not covered here? Call and ask — you’ll get a real answer, not a “depends on the job”.
Most houses here come to $9,000 to $20,000 for standard vinyl, torn off and replaced with new wrap and trim. That is roughly $5.50 to $11.00 per square foot of wall. Insulated vinyl, engineered wood and fiber cement step up from there, with fiber cement at $12 to $22 per square foot installed. Wall area, corner and window count, and what is found behind the old siding are what move your number.
If you are staying in the house, often yes. It does not oil-can, does not melt next to a grill, holds paint for about fifteen years, and reads as a materially better house from the street. If you are selling within a few years, you will not recover the difference, and good insulated vinyl is the better-value answer. We will say which one we think fits rather than defaulting to the expensive one.
Over a single layer of vinyl it is sometimes done, and we avoid it. You cannot inspect or repair the sheathing, you cannot install a proper weather barrier, and any rot already underway continues out of sight. The money saved is the tear-off line, which is the smallest line on the quote.
A typical house is four to eight working days for vinyl, and longer for fiber cement because every cut is slower. Rain pauses it, since the wall should not be left open to weather overnight. Significant sheathing repair adds a day or two, and that is the one thing nobody can schedule until the old siding is off.
A little, and much less than the marketing suggests. Insulated vinyl adds roughly R-2 to R-3, which is real but small next to attic insulation and air sealing. The genuine energy benefit of a re-side is the house wrap and the flashing done properly, because stopping air moving through the wall assembly matters more than the panel on the front of it.
Cement asbestos siding is common on houses here from the 1940s and 1950s. It is not dangerous sitting on the wall; it becomes a problem when it is broken up. It has to be removed and disposed of under specific rules, which is a separate line and a separate cost, and it is not something to let a general crew tear off casually.
Yes, and that is the reason to use us rather than a siding-only contractor. Where the old siding or a bad window flashing has been wetting a wall, the inside needs insulation out, framing checked and dried, new drywall, finish and paint. We do all of that in-house, on the same contract.
In most Maryland jurisdictions, yes, for a full replacement. It is inexpensive and it brings an inspection of the weather barrier and flashing before the siding covers them, which is exactly the stage where mistakes become invisible and expensive.
Talk to the people doing the work
Get a straight number for the whole job.
Tell us what needs doing. We’ll walk it with you, sequence every trade it touches, put the price in writing, and leave you to decide.
Get a quote
Let’s price your project.
Two short steps. No obligation, no pressure — just a clear number and a straight answer about what the job involves.
Tick as many as you like. Most jobs are two or three of them at once, and I sort out the detail when I come and look. Nobody gets turned away for choosing the wrong box.
