Concrete driveways
Concrete driveway
Read more403 Navaho Dr, Frederick, MD 21701

Concrete in Frederick & Central MD
A slab for a building is a different job from a patio. It has to be square, dead level where the door closes, and ready for whatever gets bolted to it.
Quick answer
A 10 by 12 shed slab typically runs $1,400 to $2,900, and a 24 by 24 two-car garage slab $6,500 to $13,500. Flatwork alone is $8 to $15 per square foot, but a building slab also carries a thickened perimeter, anchor setting and often cast-in services, which is why it is priced from the drawing rather than by area. Clay subgrade preparation adds $2 to $5 per square foot.
The work
A slab that is going to have a building on it has requirements a patio does not. It has to be square, because a shed kit or a garage frame will not forgive a diagonal that is out by an inch. It has to be level where the door sits, because a garage door that meets a sloping threshold either drags or leaves a gap for water and mice. And it has to be the right size — a slab poured to the nominal dimensions of a kit with no allowance is the one nobody can get the sheathing flush on.
Structurally the difference is the perimeter. A building puts its load down a line around the edge rather than spreading it over the surface, so the slab wants thickening where the walls land, and any point load — a post, a lifting beam, a car lift — wants a thickened pad under it. All of that is a decision made before the pour, because adding it afterwards means breaking out what you just paid for.
The other thing to settle in advance is everything that passes through or attaches to the slab. Anchor bolts for a sill plate are set while the concrete is wet and placed from the frame drawing. Conduit for power, a sleeve for a water line, a floor drain if one is wanted — all of it goes in before the pour. Drilling anchors into cured concrete is sometimes the right answer, but it is always the second-best one and it is never cheaper.
Frederick-area slabs for garages, sheds and outbuildings, installed, 2026. Thickened perimeters, point-load pads and cast-in services are priced from the building drawing rather than estimated by area. Site access is the usual surprise.
Ranges, not quotes. Real numbers come from a walkthrough — access, condition, height and finish level move a price more than square footage does. Estimates are free and in writing.
Get your numberFull garage or shed slab cost guide for MarylandPrefer to just talk?
Call and describe the job. You’ll get a straight answer on whether it’s something we do and roughly what it runs.
(301) 524-1729
Self-performed
Garage and shed slabs
What’s included
Written into the estimate, not assumed. If something on your job is not on this list, it gets priced and named before anyone starts.
Diagonals checked rather than assumed, and the slab sized to the real building rather than its catalogue dimensions. We ask for the kit drawing or the frame dimensions before forming, because a slab an inch out of square costs a day of fighting on the build and is visible forever at the corners.
Organic material out, compacted stone base, and extra attention where the ground is clay — a slab that moves takes a building with it, and a door that used to close is the first thing you notice. Deeper preparation than a patio needs, for the same reason a driveway needs it.
The edge thickened where the walls bear, and a thickened pad wherever a concentrated load is going — a post, a lifting beam, a lift. You tell us what is going in the building and that information changes the pour rather than becoming a problem later.
Dead level along the threshold so a garage door closes against it properly, with any fall arranged where it belongs rather than across the opening. Where a floor drain or a wash-down area is wanted the pitch gets designed around it instead of fighting it.
Anchor bolts placed from the frame drawing while the concrete is plastic, conduit and water sleeves cast in, and a drain set at the right level if one is specified. Everything that has to pass through the slab goes in before the pour, which is the whole reason to plan a slab rather than just order one.
A vapour retarder under the slab where the space will be finished, heated or used for storage that minds damp, and a surface finish suited to the use — a smooth power-trowelled floor for a workshop, a lighter broom texture where vehicles come in wet. If a coating is going on later, we finish and cure it so the coating has something to bond to.
On the job
What the trade looks like at each stage. Photos of our own recent jobs come out at the walkthrough, on the actual house.




Straight answers
Not covered here? Call and ask — you’ll get a real answer, not a “depends on the job”.
Thicker than a patio, with a thickened edge where the walls bear, and a thickened pad under anything carrying a concentrated load. The honest answer is that it depends on what is going in the building — a shed for garden tools and a garage with a four-post lift are not the same slab. Tell us the use and the frame details and we specify it rather than pouring a default thickness and hoping.
Often it depends on the size of the structure going on it rather than the slab itself, and the threshold varies by county. Frederick County, Carroll, Washington, Montgomery and Howard all publish their own limits for accessory structures, along with setback rules that matter as much as the permit does. Your county permit office is the authority. We will tell you what we believe applies before work starts, and a slab in the wrong place is harder to fix than one without paperwork.
Yes, and the kit drawing is the first thing we want to see. Catalogue dimensions and actual framed dimensions differ often enough that pouring to the advertised size is a real risk, and the anchor pattern comes off that drawing too. Bring us the paperwork before the pour and the kit goes together in a day. Bring it afterwards and somebody is drilling anchors into fresh concrete.
Same crew, same visit
Most concrete jobs are two or three of these at once, which is why they are priced and scheduled together rather than as separate call-outs.
From the field
Longer answers than a quote page has room for — how the work fails, what putting it right actually involves, and when waiting is the honest call.
Sources worth your time
None of these are ours. They are the offices and standards bodies that set the rules we work to, so you can verify what we say rather than take it.
Where the mix arrives from. Useful background on air entrainment, slump and why adding water at the truck to make concrete easier to place is the one request we will decline on an exterior slab.
OpenPlain-language technical material on curing, control joints, de-icer damage and scaling. Independent of anybody selling a driveway, which is why it is worth reading before deciding whether yours needs replacing.
OpenThe county office that decides whether your job needs a permit. Routine gutter work does not; structural and roof work usually does.
Open
Talk to the people doing the work
Tell us what needs doing. We’ll walk it with you, sequence every trade it touches, put the price in writing, and leave you to decide.
Get a quote
Two short steps. No obligation, no pressure — just a clear number and a straight answer about what the job involves.




Tick as many as you like. Most jobs are two or three of them at once, and I sort out the detail when I come and look. Nobody gets turned away for choosing the wrong box.